The post-industrial, post-Edwardian punk of Marcus Wainright and David Neville's imagination was on full display earlier this afternoon as they presented their Rag & Bone F/W 2012 Collection at Pier 57. For some reason, as the models marched to the strains of Thom Yorke's dark tunes, winding through the pier's cavernous interior, past steel girders and beyond narrow shafts of sunlight, I kept on thinking of the film There Will Be Blood, and not just because of the long boots that were doing the marching. Here's a breakdown of what led to this line of sartorial thinking:
Oil Baron Chic
Anything with a waistcoat and a narrow pant immediately brings to mind the tycoons of yesteryear, and though there were a number quilted olive green military topcoats and striped mackintoshes, it was an oversized wine wool coat that really brought out my inner Daniel Plainview. In my own defense, with its broad shearling collar and a finely tailored silhouette, this coat's refined styling is enough to make an oil baron out of any one of us.
Blood Red
The red crescendoed from subtler shades of maroon--seen on one of my favorite pieces, the wool and cashmere cardigans with shawl-collared leather lapels--into all-out dissolves of sanguine red, on a pair of herringbone chinos, or on its matching blazer. All of this red was counterbalanced by the collection's grays and blues, which commanded their own dark attention.
There Will Be Sweaters
Oh, yes. There will be sweaters. And, I'm a sucker for a good one, and the knitwear certainly abounded, in waistcoats and cardigans, and felted cable-knit sweaters. Offset by the narrow-cut corduroy jeans and tuxedo pants, these pullovers would be perfect for a chilly evening in the barren California desert.
Oil Baron Chic
Anything with a waistcoat and a narrow pant immediately brings to mind the tycoons of yesteryear, and though there were a number quilted olive green military topcoats and striped mackintoshes, it was an oversized wine wool coat that really brought out my inner Daniel Plainview. In my own defense, with its broad shearling collar and a finely tailored silhouette, this coat's refined styling is enough to make an oil baron out of any one of us.
Blood Red
The red crescendoed from subtler shades of maroon--seen on one of my favorite pieces, the wool and cashmere cardigans with shawl-collared leather lapels--into all-out dissolves of sanguine red, on a pair of herringbone chinos, or on its matching blazer. All of this red was counterbalanced by the collection's grays and blues, which commanded their own dark attention.
There Will Be Sweaters
Oh, yes. There will be sweaters. And, I'm a sucker for a good one, and the knitwear certainly abounded, in waistcoats and cardigans, and felted cable-knit sweaters. Offset by the narrow-cut corduroy jeans and tuxedo pants, these pullovers would be perfect for a chilly evening in the barren California desert.
