Mumford and Sons' Banjo Player Is Making Techno as "The Floppy Disc Jockey"
Belle & Sebastian's "Perfect Couples" Music Video Is a Super-Cute Dance Party
Belle & Sebastian have shared the new music video for "Perfect Couples", off their latest LP Girls in Peacetime Want to Dance.
Groups of couples dance and float around a suburban living room with a Wes Anderson-approved color palette.Though the video is teetering on the 9-minute mark, you gotta stick around for the group dance sequence.
It's dizzying, tedious, and adorable -- but isn't that what love is anyway?
Check out the video above.
Unmasking Beauty with FOMOFUKU
Makeup by Michael Anthony,
Photo Assistant: Jeff Rose
Models: Dianara at Muse, Mari at Muse, Bojana at Muse, Besa at New York Models, Anna at Soul, Jason Santore, James White, Philip K at Soul and Jake Brodsky
Tell us about Fomofuku. Where do you see its role in the realm fashion vs. function?
Face masks are ubiquitous in some Asian cultures and it is becoming more popular there to wear them as a fashion accessory. On a recent trip to Vietnam, we picked up a few of these "fashion" masks and my friends went crazy over them. When you stop and think about it, we have accessories to style every other part of our body so why not masks? Like sunglasses and hats, masks can offer utility but for FOMOFUKU, a means to express personality and more importantly, have fun with it. Personally, when we think of when and where we would wear a mask... festivals, raves, skiing... we think of having a good time. And they definitely make for a good instagram photo. In the end its all about having fun and keeping it simple.
How do you think masks relate to self expression and identity?
Historically, masks have been used to hide or protect a person's identity. We think it can do the opposite and can be utilized to accentuate identity, make a statement and/or redirect focus. You see a lot of musicians wearing masks and other facewear for these reasons. Like hair and makeup, a mask is a canvas to self express. In addition to our prints, FOMOFUKU will be offering white masks in our signature contour shape to allow people to customize their own.
Can anonymity be beautiful?
Yes... even more so in this digital age.
Its great to have a tease or only partially show something and it can be a beautiful thing when done well. Everyone is about exposure and showing face but isn't there always something special when its not fully revealing in an image? Its almost like placing bait or a constant draw for someone to return and look back.
What are your opinions on diversity in fashion beauty?
It's boring, really.There is no risk or anything that inspires people. It's more like, 'buy this or that because this person or celebrity uses it.' Fine, yes, it makes money... but who's gonna break that and make amazing beauty stories? We feel like if a person looks at a beauty story they should be able to walk away inspired and make there own path of beauty for themselves. Yes, they can also walk away with some product guidelines, but its so about product placement nowadays. Where are the Serge Lutens and inspiring, raw, real beauty that people can interpret for themselves?
What inspires your art?
Food, actually. It's a basic thing of sharing. As in sharing a meal with others and experience those moments. It's a core basic natural behavior where it brings people together. It also shows you different cultures and stories that you encounter through it. That's what we want to do with our work -- share it with others.Having different inputs and views always helps you grow. That's why shooting fomofuku was fun. It's an interesting way to approach beauty.
Where do the prints come from?
The mask prints are designed in-house. We have prints in everything from marble and peeling paint to kawaii kitty faces to burgers and fries to tropical flowers. We are attracted to the unconventional and plan to create a diverse offering to speak to different styles and occasions.
Who would you like to see wearing one of these masks?
K Pop star ShinEE, Sia, Miley, Biebs, Cara, Katy P, Die Antwoord, Young Thug, Fetty Wap, Drake , M.I.A.,Tokimonsta, Skrillex -- basically anyone, really.The 5 Saddest Things About Michael Jackson Wanting to Play Jar-Jar Binks
But perhaps the most unflattering thing George Lucas does in the course of Best's account is passive-aggressively telling Michael Jackson he didn't get the role of Jar Jar by introducing Best to Jackson backstage at Wembley arena as his Jar-Jar. Apparently, Jackson wanted to do "prosthetics" and actually play the character (like in the "Thriller" video), where Lucas wanted to turn everything into a gleaming CGI turd. To be honest, Jackson avoided taking a huge L, but that doesn't mean there aren't a lot of sad things about this story. Let's rank them, from least sad to saddest.
5. Ahmed Best Getting His Feelings Hurt -- I have nothing against Ahmed Best, but having George Lucas be kind of a dick to you by introducing you are "Jar Jar" and embarrassing you in front of Michael Jackson is probably not that sad in the grand scheme of things, especially when it's part of the experience of joining massive, beloved franchise.
4. Michael Jackson Getting His Feelings Hurt -- I know what I just said! But, as weird and creepy and probably a bit predatory as Michael Jackson was, it's not hard to imagine his childlike enthusiasm for being Jar Jar, and how disappointing it might have been to find out via being introduced to the person who got the part instead.
3. The Fact That Michael Jackson Even Wanted to Play Jar Jar in the First Place -- I guess people were really excited about the Star Wars prequels at the time, but the thought that the dude who made "Billie Jean" and "Smooth Criminal" and "Thriller" and is low-key the best part of The Wiz would want to be involved as this weirdo caricature marketing opportunity is just a bummer.
2. Lucas' Worry that Michael Jackson Would Be "Bigger" Than the Widely Panned Phantom Menace -- Thank god there wasn't a pop sideshow to distract from the important work of art that was The Phantom Menace. Now all we have to pay attention to is the movie, and...
1. The Existence of the Star Wars Prequels -- More than enough words have already been spilled and time wasted thinking about how horrible these movies are (though if you want a refresher, the infamous 70-minute Phantom Menace review is still worth your time). Kids will basically love almost anything thrust in front of them. Accordingly, entertainers making art explicitly for children should feel a sense of obligation to give them something they can look fondly on as adults, rather than with a deep sense of shame that they wanted to see this on their seventh birthd -- wait, what were we talking about?
The Makers of Butter Coffee Bring us "Fat Water"
Naomi Campbell Joins Cast of AHS: Hotel
It turns out that the cellphone-slinging, Delevingne-pushing, airplane disrupting model Naomi Campbell is just super method. IT ALL MAKES SENSE NOW.
Today, FX announced that the modeling legend will join the cast of American Horror Story: Hotel. She'll be playing a fashion editor (and Lady Gaga's character's nemesis). Naomi has dabbled in television in the past -- from this year's Empire to an episode of The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.
AHS creator Ryan Murphy has described Hotel as "bloodier and grislier" than the previous seasons, but until it premieres in October, just watch the latest teaser on a loop.
Stay Up Late With Janet Jackson's Sentimental Video For "No Sleeep"
Hoo boy, yeah, you won't be getting "No Sleeep" tonight, especially after putting Janet Jackson's sultry new video on repeat.
Watch Kylie Jenner Meet Caitlyn For the First Time
E! has been releasing clips all week ahead of Caitlyn Jenner's docuseries I Am Cait, premiering this weekend, and today we get a new snippet showing Jenner's youngest daughter, 17-year-old Kylie, meeting her for the first time.
Though the rest of the Kardashian family has said they were most worried about how Kylie would deal with the change, she exclaims, "hey pretty," when she walks into the room and sees Caitlyn with her and makeup done.
Later in the segment, Bruce's 88-year-old mother Esther gives Kylie a portrait of herself when she was 17. When Caitlyn points out that Esther was already married at the time, Kylie acknowledges the tyga in the room and remarks "kinda like me." Caitlyn good-naturedly bristles at her comment and the entire scene is touching and funny.
Does this mean E! has made a reality show that might actually make us feel something? What is happening?
I Am Cait debuts Sunday, July 26th, at 8 pm.
Friday Superlatives: The Best, Worst And Weirdest Of The Week
Pop Star Most In Need of The Elements of Style: Katy Perry. She posted this incomprehensible, punctuation-starved tweet defending Nicki Minaj during her feud with Taylor Swift this week. Girl, what? -- Elizabeth Thompson
Least Sincere Apology: Ian's on this week's Bachelorette Men Tell All episode, when he got down on one knee as if proposing to his fellow contestants and declared that his behavior on the show was "not a representation of who I am." Leave it to Ian to make an apology all about him. -- Suzannah Weiss
Most Mouth-Watering Sculpture: Artist Hanna Liden's Everything installation at Hudson River Park celebrates New York's signature delicacy, the bagel. A "not edible" sign may be in order. -- S.W.
Best Fitness Cover of the Month: The August 2015 issue of Women's running made some real strides (lol) when it chose a plus-size model for its cover.
There has only been positive feedback to this refreshing image that proves that
runners come in all sizes. --J.K.
Best Cosby Slam: Judd Apatow's scathing Cosby impersonation during his standup set on the Tonight Show this week. -- J.K.
Best News That Will Probably Scare The FCC: This week, our cover star/all-around badass Miley announced that she'll be hosting the VMA's on August 30th. As for Robin Thicke...let's just hope his invitation was lost in the mail. -- Taylor Silver
Best Display of Canadian Pride: After Meek Mill called out Drake for using ghostwriters on his songs, Toronto politician Norm Kelly swooped in to defend the King of the 6's honor. -- T.S.
Hottest Fashion Accessory:Vagina yarmulkes!Perfect for Reform Feminists or if you're just in the mood to freak Bubbie out. -- T.S.
Best Surprise Album News (You Hear That Frank Ocean?): Though Albert Hammond Jr.'s new LP Momentary Masters doesn't come out until July 31st, you can stream it in full here. Also check out our interview with him where he talks about the new record and scuba diving.
Best Photo You Didn't Know You Needed In Your Life: It really just speaks for itself.
-- T.S.
Most Squee-Inducing Instagram: Chance the Rapper has a baby "coming soon"!!! -- S.S.
Tastiest Artworks: There's apparently an artist named Scorpion Dagger who specializes in Renaissance x hot dog gifs. Because, Internet. -- S.S.
Dark Fashion Through The Ages Inspired By American Horror Story
Styling: Kevin Breen
Hair: Joey George at the Wall Group
Makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli at the Utopia Agency
Special thanks to Screaming Mimi's
Your Guide to Avoiding the Hurricane with New Netflix Titles
A History of Musicians Issuing Cease and Desists to (Mostly) GOP Politicians
In light of Neil Young basically telling Donald Trump to fuck off after the billionaire played "Rockin' in the Free World" during his announcement that he was running for president yesterday, we're revisiting our story from the 2012 cycle that looked at the long, long history of musicians issuing cease-and-desist letters to (mostly) GOP candidates.
When? 1964 presidential campaign
What song? "Hello Dolly"
What happened? Merrick threatened to sue Goldwater for his use of "Hello Dolly" (changing the lyric to "Hello Barry") during the 1964 presidential campaign. Incidentally, however, Merrick permitted Lyndon Johnson to use the tune and change the lyric to "Hello Lyndon."
Ronald Reagan v. Bruce Springsteen
When? 1984 presidential campaign
What song? "Born In the U.S.A."
What happened? Bruce Springsteen sent a cease and desist to Ronald Reagan for trying to use "Born in the U.S.A." during his 1984 presidential campaign against Walter Mondale.
George H.W. Bush v. Bobby McFerrin, 1988 Presidential Campaign
When? 1988 presidential campaign
What song? "Don't Worry, Be Happy"
What happened? Bobby McFerrin asked Bush Sr. to cease and desist from using his song, "Don't Worry, Be Happy"in his presidential race against Michael Dukakis.
Bob Dole v. Rondor Music International/Sam and Dave
When? 1996 presidential campaign
What song? "Soul Man"
What happened? During his race against Bill Clinton, Bob Dole tried to change the words to Sam and Dave's "Soul Man," written by the legendary Isaac Hayes, to instead say "Dole Man," leading Rondor International Music, who had rights to the song, to threaten a lawsuit.
George W. Bush v. Tom Petty
When? 2000 presidential campaign
What song? "I Won't Back Down"
What happened? Tom Petty sent Bush a cease and desist letter during the 2000 campaign against Al Gore.
George W. Bush v. Sting
When? 2000 presidential campaign
What song? "Brand New Day"
What happened? Sting asked Bush and his team to stop using "Brand New Day" in their campaign rallies but apparently permitted Gore to use the song in his campaign, even though he initially said he didn't wish his music to be associated with either party (but, hey, looks like Sting is friends with Al).
George W. Bush v. John Mellencamp
When? 2000 presidential campaign
What song? "R.O.C.K. in the U.S.A."
What happened? Mellencamp asked Bush to stop using "R.O.C.K. in the U.S.A." during his 2000 campaign.
George W. Bushv. John Hall of Orleans
When? 2004 re-election campaign
What song? "Still the One"
What happened? Kerry supporter John Hall objected to Bush using "Still the One" during the 2004 re-election campaign. Interestingly enough, Hall went on to run for Congress and was elected as a Democrat in 2006. Later in 2008, McCain repeated Bush's mistake and tried to play "Still the One" during his own campaign. You can guess where that went.
Mike Huckabee v. Boston
When? 2008GOP presidential primary campaign
What song? "More Than a Feeling"
What happened? Boston's Tom Scholz, who wrote the song, sent a letter to Huckabee asking him to stop playing it at campaign rallies.
McCainv. ABBA
When? 2008 presidential primary campaign
What song? "Take a Chance on Me"
What happened? McCain, a noted ABBA fan, played the Swedish group's hit on heavy rotation but finally dropped it due to the cost of using it and a cease and desist letter from the band.
McCain v. Jackson Browne
When? 2008 presidential campaign
What song? "Running On Empty"
What happened? As noted earlier, Jackson Browne actually sued McCain for using "Running On Empty" in a campaign commercial and a judge ruled in Browne's favor. The terms of the financial settlement were not disclosed.
McCain v. John Mellencamp
When? 2008 presidential primary campaign
What song? "Our Country" and "Pink Houses"
What happened? During the 2008 primaries, John Edwards supporter John Mellencamp had to ask McCain to stop playing patriotic rock favorites "Our Country" and "Pink Houses" at his rallies. For his part, Edwards apparently had been allowed to play those same songs at his campaign stops.
McCain v. Foo Fighters
When? 2008 presidential campaign
What song? "My Hero"
What happened? When McCain started using "My Hero" on the campaign trail, the Foo Fighters released an official statement denouncing the association between their song and his candidacy.
McCain v. Van Halen
When? 2008 presidential campaign
What song? "Right Now"
What happened? When McCain used the Van Halen song to close his big rally announcing Sarah Palin as his running mate, the rockers took offense and immediatelyissued an angry statementdisassociating the band's music with the campaign.
Sarah Palin v. Heart
When? 2008 presidential campaign
What song?"Barracuda"
What happened? After Sarah "Barracuda" Palin played "Barracuda" on the 2008 campaign trail, the Wilson sisters emailed a statementtelling her to stop immediately. After Palin didn't listen, they rightfully fired back with another angry statement saying, "Sarah Palin's views and values in NO WAY represent us as American women."
Barack Obama v. Sam Moore
When? 2008 presidential campaign
What song? "Hold On, I'm Coming"
What happened? In the only instance we could find in which a musician sent a cease and desist letter to a Democratic candidate, Sam Moore (from Sam & Dave) asked Obama to stop playing "Hold On, I'm Coming'" despite the fact that on a personal level, he thought it was "thrilling" that a black man was running for president.
Rand Paul v. Rush
When? 2010 senate campaign
What song? "The Spirit of the Radio"and "Tom Sawyer"
What happened? Though claiming it was a "copyright issue," the Canadian rockers nevertheless sent a cease and desist letter to Paul when he started playing the song at his senate campaign stops.
Charlie Crist v. David Byrne
When? 2010 senate campaign
What song? "Road to Nowhere"
What happened? The former Governor of Florida used the Talking Heads song "Road to Nowhere" in a campaign ad, prompting Byrne to sue him over unauthorized usage. Byrne won and Crist eventually -- and sort of bizarrely -- had to make a public apology on YouTube as part of the agreement. (You can watch the apology video HERE.)
Michele Bachmann v. Tom Petty
When? 2011 GOP presidential primary campaign
What song?"American Girl"
What happened? Though Hillary Clinton notably used "American Girl" during her 2008 presidential run, when it was Bachmann's turn, Tom Petty took offense and protested her using it.
Michele Bachmann v. Katrina and the Waves
When? 2011 GOP presidential primary campaign
What song? "Walking on Sunshine"
What happened? Shortly after Bachmann started playing the song, the band issued a statement objecting to its use and saying that they had "instructed their lawyers accordingly."
Newt Gingrich v. Frankie Sullivan
When? 2012 GOP presidential primary campaign
What song? "Eye of the Tiger"
What happened? Earlier this year, Survivor band member and "Eye of the Tiger" co-writer Frankie Sullivan sued Gingrich over his use of the song during his campaign, adding that Gingrich had been using the track at political events as early as 2009.
Newt Gingrich v. The Heavy
When? 2012 GOP presidential primary campaign
What song? "How You Like Me Now?"
What happened? After using the song on the campaign trail, Newt Gingrich was ordered to cease and desist by the British band who posted the following message on their Facebook account: "If you heard "How You Like Me Now?" being used by Republican, Newt Gingrich, in his campaign, we'd like you to know it had fuck all to do with us and we are trying to stop it being used. TWATS."
Mitt Romney v. K'Naan
When? 2012 GOP primary campaign
What song? "Wavin' Flag"
What happened? Though he said he'd "happily grant President Obama's campaign the use of""Wavin' Flag," the singer was unhappy when Romney started using it instead and threatened legal action.
Mitt Romney v. Al Green
When? 2012 presidential campaign
What song? "Let's Stay Together"
What happened? When the Romney campaign put out an ad poking fun of Obama singing Al Green's "Let's Stay Together," representatives from BMG pulled the video from YouTube, citing a copyright claim.
Mitt Romney v. Silversun Pickups
When?2012 presidential campaign
What song? "Panic Switch"
What happened? Finally, in the most recent example -- and one of the only occasions in which a candidate attempts to use an "indie song" -- Silversun Pickups issued a cease and desist after Romney starting playing "Panic Switch" at his campaign events. We're going to guess that some twentysomething campaign intern, maybe the same one who helped Urban Outfitters dream up these funky-fresh '2 Legit 2 Mitt' shirts, suggested this. (Or is Mitt a secret hipster who is wearing those mom jeansironically?)
Dee Snider v. Paul Ryan
When? 2012 presidential campaign
What song?"We're Not Gonna Take It"
What happened? After Ryan started opening his campaign stops with the classic glam metal party song, the Twisted Sister frontman quickly responded with the following barb, "I emphatically denounce Paul Ryan's use of my song 'We're Not Gonna Take It' as recorded by my band Twisted Sister. There is almost nothing on which I agree with Paul Ryan, except perhaps the use of the P90X." Zing!
DNC v. Cyndi Lauper
When? 2012 presidential campaign
What song?"True Colors"
What happened? The DNC used Lauper's song in a Romney attack ad. Cyndi was not a fan.
Honorable Mention:
Scott Walker v. Dropkick Murphys
When? 2015 (Though this was not during a political race)
What song?"I'm Shipping Up to Boston"
What happened?Walker played the song before he gave a speech in Iowa, prompting the Boys from Beantown to deliver one of the most withering tweets ever. It read: "@ScottWalker @GovWalker please stop using our music in any way... we literally hate you!!! Love, Dropkick Murphys."
Sources:
Daily Kos
The Toronto Star
"'Happy' is a Revolutionary Song": Al Gore and Pharrell Talk Music, Optimism and Live Earth 2015
Beirut Gets Wes Anderson-Absurdist in their Video for "No No No"
10 Actors from the '50s and '60s to Crush Over
ALDO RAY (1926-1991)
A Pennsylvania-born Italian American, Aldo provided a sturdy film presence with a husky voice and a bit of a twinkle. He played opposite Judy Holliday (The Marrying Kind) and Rita Hayworth (Miss Sadie Thompson) and his presence was always felt. The guy was solid.
TY HARDIN (1930-)
Ty starred in the TV series Bronco and in very of-their-time melodramas like The Chapman Report and Berserk (opposite cougar Joan Crawford). In another remarkable achievement, he's been married eight times. But mainly he's notable for his very handsome Palm Springsy looks, which endure on celluloid.
FRED WILLIAMSON (1938-)
A football hero who became a movie icon a la Jim Brown, Williamson was in one classic film comedy (M*A*S*H), one Liza movie (Tell Me That You Love Me, Junie Moon), and a bunch of exploitation flicks (Black Caesar, Hell Up in Harlem). More recently, he stayed relevant with parts in From Dusk Till Dawn and Inglorious Basterds. Whatever his project of the moment, the man redefines hunk-a-dunka-do.
DENNIS O'KEEFE (1908-1968)
O'Keefe became an MGM player in the 1930s and kept working, partly thanks to his movie star looks. He did an occasional quality film, but generally nothing too distinguished (Topper Returns, Dishonored Lady). But who cares? Dennis had a square jaw, nice bone structure, and a lovely bit of a randy look in the eye.
JOHN GAVIN (1931-)
With his chiseled looks, Gavin could portray carnality without even trying. He did three extremely memorable films (Imitation of Life, Psycho, and Thoroughly Modern Millie) and he's also remembered for almost getting to be James Bond and for definitely being the U.S. Ambassador to Mexico from 1981-86. Accept no imitation of Gavin. He's the man for me.
ALAIN DELON (1935-)
Alain was alternately called the French James Dean and the male Brigitte Bardot, but he was his own homme, smoldering in art films like Purple Noon, Rocco and His Brothers, and The Leopard. The guy didn't make it as a Hollywood star, but he did make it as a real-life romancer, having been linked with Romy Schneider, Nico, and other lucky people. C'est si bon.
MICHAEL PARKS (1938-)
A motorcycle riding TV star, Parks played one of the ultimate roles -- a scantily clad Adam in The Bible -- as well as helping populate '60s swinging romps like The Idol and The Happening. Tarantino re-anointed him by putting him in Kill Bill films and Django Unchained. Any movie with him in it is a welcome exercise in Parks and recreation.
KEIR DULLEA (1936-)
A handsome, somewhat otherworldly actor, Dullea debuted in 1961's The Hoodlum Priest and went on to films like the missing person drama Bunny Lake is Missing (in which he played a psycho) and 1968's sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey, in which he gave Hal a run for his gigabytes. Keir Dullea, not gone tomorrow.
TOM TRYON (1926-91)
From I Married a Monster From Outer Space to the hyped dud The Cardinal, the handsomely cheekboned Tryon didn't attain first tier movie stardom. But he then wrote the book The Other and he also came out of the closet, making it big as a novelist/gay. Interestingly, one of his books was the basis for Billy Wilder's cult film Fedora.
HENRY SILVA (1928-)
A New York actor of Sicilian and Spanish descent, this guy always projected an interesting, uncertain ethnicity and reliably played heavies, with roles in The Manchurian Candidate and Johnny Cool. He was cool all right. Henry had "it."
The New Antwerp Six: Rising Belgian Designers Shaking Up the Fashion Scene
Aside from the fame of the Six, Antwerp's fashion stardom is largely due to the sterling reputation of the Royal Academy, where Walter Van Beirendonck is artistic director. With a highly selective admission process, the Academy draws talented fashion students from around the world for its conceptual take on garment creation. And as home to several luxury houses, the city just north of Brussels has become a hotspot for young fashion creatives, retaining many Academy graduates who choose to remain in the city when their studies are over.
Below, get to know six rising stars from the Antwerp scene.
Christian Wijnants
"Belgian fashion is about individualism," says the Brussels-born designer, whose rich, layered graphics combined with elegant knitwear are simultaneously subtle and outstanding and A-line skirts paired with over-sized cardigans take on a new look under his eye. It's a delicate hand that caught the attention of Dries Van Noten, who named Wijnants' graduate collection from the Royal Academy 'Best Collection' in 2000 before taking him under his wing in Antwerp. From there, Christian went on to work with Angelo Tarlazzi in Paris before he returned to Antwerp to launch his eponymous label in 2003. Having already sold his collection to more than 100 boutiques worldwide, including Barneys and Harvey Nichols, the designer will finally get his own flagship in Antwerp in September.
"Antwerp has a rich history and I love the city. It keeps on inspiring me."-- Christian Wijnants
Wim Bruynooghe
"There's a nostalgic greyness," to Antwerp that inspires Wim Bruynooghe, who grew up in the nearby coastal city of Ostende. Both cities have an openness that comes from their location directly on the North Sea.
With a palette of blues, grays and neutrals mixed with ruffles that tumble down from the shoulder or waist, the rough and tumble influence of the North Atlantic is apparent. While the label is still relatively new, the recent opening of a flagship in Antwerp has held the buying public's attention in a fast-paced industry. "Creating a hype around a sweater seems way too easy and that's not what fashion should be about. We prefer instead to create a world."
Toos Franken
A small, one-woman shop, Toos Franken took a non-conventional path to launching her line in 2014. After working as an assistant in the pattern ateliers at Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann, Franken enrolled in a two-year patternmaking course before branching out on her own. These experiences as a patternmaker shine through in her womenswear, the entirety of which she still makes by hand. In her first collection, she produced about 150 individual pieces of about 30 styles; each piece feels, then, one-of-a-kind, which fits well with Franken's design philosophy.
"You should buy clothes because you love them and not because you want an excessive amount of them. It costs a lot of money to buy handmade in Belgium, so I don't want them to be worn out in a year or that people will recognize it as something from a previous season. They will stand out a little bit but I want my jacket to be something that you can keep for 20 years and then give it to your granddaughter."
Growing up in the shadow of the Antwerp Six shaped Cedric Jacquemyn's understanding of fashion entirely. The group's influence is seen not only in Jacquemyn's designs, which rely heavily on draping to create sophisticated urban menswear looks that layer well, but also very much determines the way his business has developed since its inception in 2010.
"I've always been interested in Belgian fashion and in Antwerp. There's a focus on smaller, more independent fashion brands. If you look at Belgian fashion labels, there's always this quest for being free and though your life or your label may get more serious, the strength of the Royal Academy is that it forced creative thinking, which in turn becomes a reminder of your freedom. Doing what you believe in means it takes longer to get off the ground."
Still, Jacquemyn remains confident about the trajectory of Belgian fashion. "For the first time in Belgian history, you have labels who are no longer being designed by Belgians but all the labels stay true to themselves."
While that's true of his own designs, over the last five years, Jacquemyn says his label has changed very much on the business side. Having already shown in Paris, London and Copenhagen, Jacquemyn has decided to sit this runway season out in favor of gaining a closer connection to the wearer and concentrating on the more personalized sales approach. "We make the prototypes in my atelier by hand but work with Belgian production companies. It's important for us, then, to find more stores that are focused on quality, on the handmade garment. Shops becoming more like galleries is the future of fashion."
"There's a cooperative, not competitive atmosphere here, which is inspiring."-- Cedric Jacquemyn
Marius Janusauskas
The youngest of the bunch, Marius Janusauskas has just put the finishing touches on his first collection after graduating from the Royal Academy in 2012. "It was inspired by Gertrude Stein," he says. "The American traveling to Paris and the mix of two cultures and the mixing of symbols." An interesting inspirational mix, considering Janusauskus had to do extra legwork after first arriving in Antwerp after growing up in post-Soviet Lithuania.
"I came out of post-Soviet Lithuania, so for me the whole Western culture we were denied access to was so foreign, that barrier between us and them. I had to study Western culture, the symbols, looks and ideas that I was lacking before because of growing up with Russian culture."
That homework paid off with a collection that's both comfortable and wearable while also remaining forward-thinking in its style.
Devon Halfnight Leflufy
Though only just getting started in the fashion world, Devon Halfnight Leflufy already has the strong credentials necessary for a major breakthrough. One of 26 designers nominated for the second edition of the LVMH Prize, the Canadian-born menswear designer works with buyers in Paris, presents his collections in New York and has already been picked up by Opening Ceremony in LA, though he still calls Antwerp home, even after finishing his Master's from the Royal Academy. "I'm struck by the juxtaposition of history and tradition, against an emptiness that allows you to work and explore freely."
The Coolest Person in the Room: Jake Levy
"Them Changes" Are Good: Thundercat Has a Mini-Album Coming Monday
Now, Thundercat is releasing his first new record since 2013's excellent Apocalypse, a mini-album titled The Beyond / Where the Giants Roam that reportedly features Herbie Hancock, on Lotus' Brainfeeder label. Check out the first released track, "Them Changes," below, then start getting very, very excited. [via Pitchfork]
Listen to Robyn's New House Banger "Love Is Free"
Scenes from Yoko Ono's Sunrise Performance at MoMA
'Yoko Ono: One Woman Show, 1960-1971' will be on display at the museum through September 7, 2015.
Yoko Ono
FLAT WHITE aka Virgil Abloh
Yoko Ono
Yoko Ono
Dev Hynes
Dev Hynes