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All the posts on www.papermag.com.

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    Mr. Mickey caught up with actress Rose Byrne -- breakout star of last summer's Bridesmaids, and who's in town shooting season five of the beloved legal drama Damages -- at Tuesday night's Sandro Bleecker Street store opening. Watch them chat about her Australian accent, why fans don't recognize her from Bridesmaids ("I take it as a compliment what with my character Helen's big hair") and her Fashion Week plans.
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    Electro-pop band Holy Ghost! performed live at the DKNY Men's Fall/ Winter 2012 presentation last night in the label's showroom. Although the music was catchy and featured dancey, thumping beats , the menswear presentation was rather conservative. The color palette was dark, consisting of navy, grays and warm tans. The two-button suits had a fitted silhouette and a slick, unfussy vibe. The more casual pieces -- baseball caps, puffy jackets, sweaters and chinos -- were basic with a more relaxed, easy spirit. All of it felt like a revival of the well-dressed 1990s man -- what a blessing. Check out Marco Ovando's photos below for more Fall/Winter looks.

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    dknym8.jpgHoly Ghost!


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    While this video for Jay-Z and Kanye West's song "Ni**as in Paris" features a warning that it may "trigger seizures for people with photosensitive epilepsy," other than the flashing lights, there is little particularly interesting or shocking about the video. It's mostly cobbled together images of Jay and Kanye's performance at L.A.'s Staples Center as part of their "Watch the Thrones" tour, plus a funny clip of Will Ferrell from Blades of Glory. Maybe by the time they finished "Otis" they had spent their video budget?

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    youmymother.jpgTwo-Headed Calf, the always innovative and exciting Obie Award winning performance group, co-founded by composer Brendan Connelly and director Brooke O'Harra, delivers a  two-part chamber opera this time out, You, My Mother, focused on the ever-shifting relationship between mothers and their adult children.  Fellow collaborators include two playwrights, Karinne Keithley Syers and Kristen Kosmas, composer Rick Burkhardt, and the music ensemble of Yarn/Wire + Strings.  I spoke with O'Harra.

    Hi Brooke.  How did you come to do a chamber opera?
     
    Originally, because we do so much live music in our shows, the idea behind this show was to make the music central.  And the way an opera functions, first and foremost is the music; so that's the reason we chose to do an opera.  So what we did was: we paired up two playwrights with two composers.  And what the playwrights wanted was a baseline, something to write about so that they were writing on the same theme or idea. So we asked the company members in the play to write their own narrative of the "ever-shifting relationship between mother and adult children." Also, Brendan and I wrote our own personal narratives on the same topic.  When you become an adult, there's a changing landscape; all of a sudden the relationship between you and your mother shifts.  And so the playwrights wrote librettos based on these narratives, and they also used their own personal narratives too.
     
    What will we see on stage?
     
    A six-piece chamber ensemble in the center of the set.  The actors perform inside and around the band. There is no set, with an orchestra to the side.  The orchestra is central.  The ensemble are also performers in the piece.  They are not just playing music.  They sing solos.  There's also a little bit of dancing.
     
    The other main thing is: we use slides, which we are designing and printing.  It's not nostalgic.  The slides operate as super titles, but also as a visual language.  There are 3 slide projectors which the performers operate.  And there are moments where we acknowledge the slides.  Like characters saying, "Oh, I remember that" or "We didn't do that".  It shows the way memories conflict, between the parent and the child; how there's a difference between how we remember things, and how this alters the landscape too.
     
    Tell me about the performers.
     
    The performers sing.  We have two company members who are trained singers and dancers, but we also brought in two ringers, who are wonderful singers.  The mother, who (in real life) has children the same age as the two performers who play the adult children, a man and a woman.  There's also a third character, who shadows the mother, but is also the child.  She is more fluid because she functions as a double.  And of course, the band is Yarn/Wire + Strings, a new music ensemble, and we are collaborating with them on this show.
     
    Anything else?
     
    It's Two-Headed Calf's first commission.  We've always used text that exists, classics like George Bernard Shaw or Kabuki.  This one is an original commissioned piece.
     
    It's not just singing, there's acting.  It's a performance.  It's an opera, so it's based on singing, but there's dialogue, and narrative and character.  It's an event. Even the band dances.
     
    La Mama's Ellen Stewart Theatre, 66 E. 4th St., (212) 475-7710. Feb. 9-20. Thurs.-Sun., 7:30 p.m.; Sat. matinees, 2:30 p.m.; additional performance, Feb. 20, 7:30 p.m., $25/$20 (students and seniors), 70-minute running time.
     

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    Someone with very impressive Photoshop skills and a familiarity with the style subtleties of fashion world luminaries has created a Tumblr site devoted to... well... Fashimals. Enjoy. We want a pet owl Alber Elbaz!!


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    Daphne Guinness

    tumblr_ls7q9enBLl1r2mwo9.jpgKate Lanphear

    tumblr_ls7nztJNL11r2mwo9o1_r1_400.jpgLeigh Lezark

    tumblr_ls5x6b4nNx1r2mwo9o1_400.jpgOlivier Zahm

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    Anna Dello Russo

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    Andre Leon Talley

    tumblr_lru0erxlvT1r2mwo9o1_400.jpgHamish Bowles

    tumblr_lrimebTz7M1r2mwo9o1_r1_400.jpgTerry Richardson

    tumblr_lrdt4y2o9A1r2mwo9o1_r1_400.jpgRei Kawakubo

    tumblr_lrabswT6ul1r2mwo9.jpgGrace Coddington

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    Alber Elbaz

    tumblr_lr7s7pMi3T1r2mwo9o1_500.jpgAnna Wintour


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    For fall, Rachel Comey suggests keeping it simple. Makeup artists edged the eyes. A thin, black line was attached to outer corners and lips were kept glossy. To update this look, break out your paddle brushes and styling products. To keep the focus on the face, hairstylists inserted a side part and pulled the hair back into a French roll or a low bun, thus, making the top knot so last year. See the above photo gallery for details.




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  • 02/09/12--13:21: Jason Wu's a Cat Person



  • Apparently, mere hours after Jason Wu's collection for Target launched online, it completely sold out! Mr. Mickey, lucky boy that he is, got to attend a VIP shopping event for the diffusion line, where he picked up a couple pieces, and bonded with Wu about being a cat person, and their shared love of illustrator Rene Gruau.

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    Here, designer Steven Alan discusses the inspirations behind his fall/winter line (Diego Rivera) and offers tips for those who are willing to stand online his bi-annual sample sale (hint, go on Friday mornings!).

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    shailenewoodley_honor.jpgScanning the front row crowd at the Honor show this afternoon at The Studio Lincoln Center, it was clear many eyes were fixed on Shailene Woodley.  The actress, recently nominated for a Golden Globe for her role in The Descendants, wore some pony hair, very-on-trend slippers, simple black slacks and a gray cardigan over a chic white, equestrian-print blouse. But many might be surprised that this red carpet pro was attending her very first Fashion Week and, in fact, her very first fashion show.

    The starlet was effusive about her first fashion week experience ("Oh my god, so much fun!  So exciting!") but her biggest praise was reserved for the clothes themselves.  Of Honor's collection, the actress said, "I love how simple [the clothes] are but very different from your average dress.  They're more structured and very feminine with masculine hints.  I love that." 

    And, Shailene should know, the feeling is mutual.  When asked whom she'd most like to dress on the red carpet, Honor designer Giovanna Randall did not hesitate in naming Woodley as one of her top choices.  "She is amazing.  She was amazing in The Descendants," Randall cooed.

    And what's next for the rising star?  More shows?  After parties?  How about London.  She told PAPERMAG she was excited to see Jason Wu's show on Friday but then she would be whisked across the pond for the BAFTAs.  Though she was slammed (perhaps unfairly) at the SAG Awards for her gown choice, we predict this low-key, nature-loving gal will be a fashionista to watch for quite some time.

    Photo via Billy Farrell Agency

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    veda2.jpgLast night, designer Lyndsey Butler premiered her playful, leather-heavy collection for Veda in The Hole gallery's graffiti-filled cellar. Downtown dignitaries like artist Jeanette Hayes and DJ Chelsea Leyland swung by to show their support, while models frolicked around in blue bedazzled pants and jackets paired with some pretty Pamela Love originals. The girls looked great (thanks in large part to stylist Ian Bradley, who engineered the evening's ensembles) as they snapped photos of themselves with disposable cameras, a number of which were given out to patrons as they arrived at the intimate venue.

    "It was important for us to try and eliminate that awkward space between model and viewer at a presentation," said Butler of the evening's fun factor. "It doesn't feel so serious--it's more about hanging out and having fun, and how you'd look if you were hanging out."

    And hang out many did, sticking around for a DJ set by punk band Bad Boyfriend, who provided a live soundtrack earlier in the night. "They're just so cute," Butler says of the group. "When I knew they were going to play, I was like 'great, four more models basically.'"

     Now that Butler's done with Fashion Week (almost even before it's really started), has she any plans? "I'm gonna try to head to the west coast for a week or two," she said. "My boyfriend's from San Francisco, so we were thinking of going there and then driving up north. There's all these beaches around there that are so romantic!"


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    Screen shot 2012-02-09 at 5.33.35 PM.png"I'm not fat, I'm just big boned!"-Cartman, South Park 

    Now fashionistas can judge this claim for themselves with Marc Jacobs' new T-shirts featuring a naked Cartman along with his fellow South Park residents Randy Marsh and Butters Stotch.  The trio pose protecting their manly bits behind the the slogan "Protect Your Largest Organ." 

    We love that Marc Jacobs paid it back to the South Park dudes after they featured him on an episode as Cartman's doll, "Muscle Man Marc."  These shirts are the latest version of Jacobs' and Marc Jacobs president Robert Duffy's collaboration with the Interdisciplinary Melanoma Cooperative Group at New York University, wherein proceeds from the items' sales benefit the non-profit.  You can snag one for $35 online or at any Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique.

    If only we could glimpse Anna Wintour or Carine Roitfeld in one of these tees during fashion week...but that's just wishful thinking.



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    At last night's VICE puppy fashion show, we asked 10 party-goers: "If you were a dog, what kind would you be and why?"

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    "Rhodesian Ridgeback because they are fierce and loyal and you generally don't want to fuck with them" - Suroosh Alvi, Founder of Vice



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    "Jiggy! The Vanderpump's dog from Real Housewives of Beverly Hills." - Jeanette Hayes
     

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    "A Chow Chow because they have purple tongues." - John Tuite, model (who appeared in Paper's holiday 2011 issue)

     

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    "An all white Siberian Husky. They are the first direct decedents from the wolf." - Zak Kiernan

     
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    "The Grey Mastiff, two of them! Two because I envision myself being pulled down the street with these two grey mastiffs" - Pierce Cunningly, stylist

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    "A Blue Nose Pitbull because they're tough, and I grew up in Oakland so..." - Miyako Bellizzi, stylist
     

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    "I'd say...Jack Russell. They are so funny and have lots of energy, are really cute, small and silly." - Toyo Tsuchiya, artist and photographer
     

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    "A Doberman. They are elegant yet strong." - Prisca Franchetti, artist
     

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    "Husky. I like them." - Austin Peters, DJ
     

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    "A Dogo Argentino 'cus they are friendly as hell and tough as fuck."- Gabriel Friedman, web designer

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    "A Chihuahua. Because all the ladies love little dogs, and I'd like to be seen as a little ladies man dog but who knows." - Nathan Dam, the Doggy District Fashion Show's Master Dog Wrangler and VICE intern

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    With all of the hubub surrounding the official start to New York Fashion Week today, it's easy to forget that the fashion crowd has seven more days of breathlessly rushing to shows, sprinting in fashionably impractical shoes and posing (or dodging) in front of the hordes of blogger photographers clustered around Lincoln Center.  Everyone it seems has different tips or strategies for how to survive the madness but we're not interested in what just everyone has to say -- we want to hear from the pros!  And who better than fashion darlings Alexa Chung and Derek Blasberg?

    Catching up with the duo backstage at Lincoln Center after the Honor Show, they shared some sage advice with PAPERMAG about how to be a hit at Fashion Week.

    What are your tips for surviving the madness of Fashion Week?

    Alexa: Well I'm asked this every time and I never change the answer.  My answer is just to drink water or something really lame.

    Derek: Hydrate!

    Alexa: I'm not heeding my own advice.  I'm gasping!

    And what about tips on how to get from show-to-show? 

    Derek: Take the subway!  That's a good one.

    Alexa: Yeah, take the subway.

    Derek: And then people will think you're street!

    People make the mistake of taking cabs and cars--

    Derek: Too much traffic!

    Alexa: You should take the subway.

    Derek: Stay underground!

    Alexa: And, bring a mirror!

    Derek: And a breath mint!  Subway, mirror, breath mint, hydrate.

    Alexa: And don't lean forward so I can't see the clothes!

    Derek: [sings Fat Joe song] "Lean back, lean back"

    Alexa
    : Relax into it!


    And there you have it.  Bring some mints (which is a good call because gum-chewing looks tacky), snag some swag water (Aquafina seems to be this year's sponsor), ride the subway and bring a mirror (we're partial to smartphone screen protectors that come with a mirror--that way you can nonchalantly check yourself out while everything thinks you're just texting or squinting really intensely at your phone).

    Photo via Billy Farrell Agency



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    Susie_Downtown.jpgWe spotted the British fashion blogger Susie Lau from her famed blog Style Bubble sitting front row at Tess Giberson's Fall 2012 show. We had to ask about her motherland's most important import since The Beatles and The Beckhams: Downton Abbey.
     
    So, are you a fan of Downton Abbey?

    Yeah! I've noticed it's all over here, and I can't believe it. I had no idea people were watching it like crazy. I thought Downton was a completely British phenomena.

    What do you love about it?

    Well for me, I mean, it is all about Matthew and Mary isn't it? It's all about, when are they going to get together and... you know. And Hugh Bonneville is awesome. If you love him in Downtown you should watch him in this spoof show called Twenty Twelve. It takes the piss out of the Olympics committee and he's in it and is awesome.

    Why are you so surprised that it is so big over here?

    I don't know! Why would anyone be interested in such an 'Upstairs, Downstairs' show? It's such an upper-class drama. It just seems a bit strange. There are so many amazing British period dramas, of course, so I am surprised that this one has been picked up.

    Now, as for why we're talking in the first place: What attracts you to Tess Giberson's work?

    I really like her knitwear, and I think she has this really nice subtle approach. Her clothes don't have a lot of bells and whistles. They are quietly interesting clothes.

    How do you prepare for your fashion month ahead?

    I make sure that I stay in good health, really. Staying healthy is the trick. I normally get ill along the way so I take lots of Berocca and Echinacea. Berocca are these effervescent Vitamin C tablets.

    Related:

    Shailene Woodley Sits Pretty at Honor, Her First Ever Fashion Show
    Downton Abbey's Unlikely Celebrity Fans
    Dragton Abbey
    Downton Abbey Stars On-Screen Vs. Off-Screen

    PLUS:

    All of our New York Fashion Week coverage, in one spot!    



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    Cynthia Rowley's world seems like a whole lot of fun. The designer's sporty femininity and feel-good vibe run fluidly from her life into her collections. Here are five reasons why her workwear-inspired F/W 2012 runway show made us, well, want to be part of her world.

    1. It's a place where... you are greeted at the door by cute cocktail waiters offering you a split of sparkling wine with a floating pink straw to drink from.

    2. It's a place where...you surf the shores of Montauk and play badminton tournaments in the yard of your summer house there with your model/actress gal pal Rebecca Romijn. Romijn, before taking her seat on the front row, told us that she's "not so good a surfing, but a very good badminton player."

    3. It's a place where... you are encouraged to wear an actual face of 'barely there makeup' and your hair in an "I just got back from the beach, and although the humidity has turned my natural curls into a frizzfest, I am just going to toss it up and go with it" bun.

    4. It's a place where... embellishment is nothing to shy away from. Her collection featured over-sized sweatshirts clustered with small mounds of sparkle, bejeweled chokers as wide as your neck and portfolio clutch's disguised as exotic birds with neon green feathers.

    5. It's a place where... coveralls and a turtleneck can look sexy. The ladder added a hint of chic mystery layered under boxy jackets and kaleidoscopic print dresses while the former came in a navy plaid and plush.

    PLUS:

    All of our New York Fashion Week coverage, in one spot!



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    Solange-Knowles-Refinery.jpgWe caught up with new aunt Solange Knowles at last night's Refinery 29 Fashion Week kickoff party at the Double Seven, where she was manning the ones and twos. A mother herself, Knowles explained how natural it is to care for her big sis Bey's newborn, Blue Ivy Carter. "She is so beautiful. She's doing well and is a healthy baby girl. Having her in my arms is so natural to me being a mother myself. It's funny to have your big sister ask you for advice sometimes."

    Being the maestro for the evening, music was definitely on her mind. "I'm keeping it real simple this Fashion Week. I'm only going to four shows or so." She hinted at what she's been up to in the studio and R&B addicts will definitely be impressed. As a follow-up to her 2008 stunner, Sol-Angel and the Hadley Street Dreams, the 25-year-old singer will follow in the footsteps of her childhood idols to make what she calls "a percussive, sensual new album."

    "The major influence this time around are producers Jimmy Jam and Terry Lewis," she said of the legendary '80s and '90s-era producers. "They're most known for crafting Janet Jackson's sound, but have also done lesser known stuff that I really enjoy. A lot of their '80s productions inspired the new record...I grew up listening to Janet, S.O.S Band, Human League, The Time, so, it's really my take on that New Wave meets New Jack Swing, Minneapolis sound."

    Photo by Neil Rasmus/Billy Farrell Agency

    Related:

    Solange Knowles on the 2008 cover of PAPER
    Blue Ivy's Fake Twitter account

    PLUS:

    All of our New York Fashion Week coverage, in one spot!

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    Here, Mr. Mickey chats with one of his favorite designers, Doo Ri, about her F/W 2012 collection (which showed earlier this afternoon). They kiki'd and carried on about the line's inspiration (Butoh, the Japanese avant-garde dance form -- not to be confused with late Pakistani prime minister Benazir Bhutto), how motherhood has calmed her and whether her new line for Macy's comes in a bigger size for Mr. Micks (it does).

    PLUS:

    All of our New York Fashion Week coverage, in one spot!



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  • 02/10/12--15:01: There Will Be Rag & Bone
  • The post-industrial, post-Edwardian punk of Marcus Wainright and David Neville's imagination was on full display earlier this afternoon as they presented their Rag & Bone F/W 2012 Collection at Pier 57. For some reason, as the models marched to the strains of Thom Yorke's dark tunes, winding through the pier's cavernous interior, past steel girders and beyond narrow shafts of sunlight, I kept on thinking of the film There Will Be Blood, and not just because of the long boots that were doing the marching. Here's a breakdown of what led to this line of sartorial thinking:
     
    Oil Baron Chic
    Anything with a waistcoat and a narrow pant immediately brings to mind the tycoons of yesteryear, and though there were a number quilted olive green military topcoats and striped mackintoshes, it was an oversized wine wool coat that really brought out my inner Daniel Plainview. In my own defense, with its broad shearling collar and a finely tailored silhouette, this coat's refined styling is enough to make an oil baron out of any one of us.
     
    Blood Red
    The red crescendoed from subtler shades of maroon--seen on one of my favorite pieces, the wool and cashmere cardigans with shawl-collared leather lapels--into all-out dissolves of sanguine red, on a pair of herringbone chinos, or on its matching blazer. All of this red was counterbalanced by the collection's grays and blues, which commanded their own dark attention.
     
    There Will Be Sweaters
    Oh, yes. There will be sweaters. And, I'm a sucker for a good one, and the knitwear certainly abounded, in waistcoats and cardigans, and felted cable-knit sweaters. Offset by the narrow-cut corduroy jeans and tuxedo pants, these pullovers would be perfect for a chilly evening in the barren California desert.

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    Leave it to genius menswear designer Tim Coppens to find chicness in unfashionable inspirations like men's hockey uniforms and athletic wear for his F/W '12 collection. Also inspiring his new line? Moody car-chase drama Drive, starring Ryan Gosling. "I just liked the character," Coppens says of Gosling's stoic, getaway-driver role. "He's half man and half machine." Check out the rest of our PAPER TV interview with Coppens above.

    PLUS:

    All of our New York Fashion Week coverage, in one spot!



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    Ed note: Technical difficulties prevented us from posting this video yesterday, so just pretend that when Mr. Mickey says "today" he means "yesterday." Sad face.

    Designers Creatures of the Wind are a favorite of Mr. Mickey's, as well as the CFDA and Anna Wintour -- the design duo of Chris Peters and Shane Gabier were recently named runners up in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards (basically the Oscars of the fashion world). Check out this super-fun PAPERTV interview with COTW, in which Mr. Mickey asks them about nude photos and takes a look at their new collection, which he describes as "lady lumberjack."

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